You probably know a lot about the type of car that you want, as I would expect that you’ve done your shopping by looking at cars, either in lots or online or talking to friends. Now it’s time to inform yourself about car salesmen.
No matter how much you know about the car you’re looking for, you won’t know as much as the person trying to sell you one. So don’t even try to outsmart a salesman. But do check them out for honesty by asking some questions that you already know the answer to, and if you have a referral from a friend or relative, do mention that. Referrals carry a lot of weight with sales people. They won’t want to damage the relationships that are giving them referrals, so try to have one when you walk on the lot, even if it’s from someone you don’t know particularly well.
Other than that, if you can deduct the car expenses as part of a business tax write-off, a lease is probably the best way to go: lower up-front cost, up to 100% deductible (depending on how much of the operation is “business” use), and known cost from start to end of the lease.
On the other hand, if you can afford to pay cash for the car, and if it’s only for personal use, then that’s going to be the lowest-cost option otherwise. In fact, even though dealerships make good money from financing (GMAC, the financing arm of GM, has often outperformed the parent company), the salesman wants to make a sale. That means he doesn’t want to have to fool around trying to arrange financing for unqualified buyers; if you have cash and he knows that, and you’re obviously in the market, you are hot. He should treat you right. Obviously, he should treat you right anyway, but if he knows that you have your qualification in your purse and all he needs is a pen, then you’re gold to him.
Other than that, buy a used car. Certified used cars are a fraction of the cost of new, don’t lose tremendous value at the point of re-sale (to you), since that has already happened with the first owner, and should still be trouble-free for upwards of 100,000 miles.