Can you replace a support wall in a house with columns and remove the wall?

It takes a lot of structural engineering to remove a load-bearing wall, but it can be done. Usually, there will need to be a beam installed overhead to take the load, and possibly columns to support the beam (I think it depends on how long it is). A structural engineer would know the specifics. I think removing a floor/ceiling (so long as there isn’t a load-bearing wall underneath it) would be less of a problem, but I’m not entirely sure.

We have done it. You need to put a huge beam up in the ceiling and beefed up support to hold it. It’s harder obviously in a 2 story building but impossible.

Edit:(I should have read auggies post before writing. ) and…. I thought I was editing, not writing a new post obviously.)

@Judi Actually, you answered another question I had, which was if the beam always shows. I guess if there is a floor above the beam would be below ceiling height?

We put the beam above the Sheetrock so it wouldn’t show.

@JLeslie Yes, the beam will show below the ceiling. Unless you lower the level of the ceiling over the entire room.

I’ll repeat, get an Structural Engineer.
If you DIY without the engineer designing the beam and columns ; the second floor could meet the first floor.

Nobody is DIY’ing. Not to worry.

It doesn’t have to show. Just tear out the Sheetrock and put it above. Costs a little more but if you don’t want it to show it doesn’t have to. If it is single store there is usually plenty of room above the ceiling for it.

Does the second story floor support the house in any way? If I wanted to take away the floor above the garage so the garage is two story should there be no problem?

The cross pieces called joists are there to keep the walls from spreading under the weight of the roof. Or if the roof has a truss system the boards going across are part of the the truss and replace the joists.

I would think not, but your contractor can tell you by looking at it.

@Judi One more question. If the house is slab, then can you just stain that cement for the stained floors. Or, do they pour a new layer of cement? Is it possible to do the stained floors on a second floor if the house is mostly wood construction? Is it just like putting down tile in terms of weight?

I think the stain is an additive to the concrete or at least added once its poured. There are some products you can paint onto a concrete floor though or just polish it out although the tool to polish it is around $100 a day to rent. Concrete cracks. It’s just a given. I have polished concrete downstairs (cracks snd all) and tile and wood upstairs. I think it would crack even more if you tried it upstairs. It would be really expensive too.

@JLeslie They’re doing beautiful things with concrete acid stains these days. It’s what experienced concrete contractors with an artistic bent are doing when they get bored to tears with plain jane flatwork. The actual process is within the abilities of an experienced DIYer, but the visual results will be a crap shoot because each concrete slab will react differently depending on the variances of the mix when they were poured. It takes a lot of practice to get the desired look.

Thin overlays, ¼–3/8 inches, are also popular. It might be possible to put down cement board on the second floor and pour the overlay on that. Weight would be similar to a tile install. I’m speculating though, so consult a concrete contractor.

Pretty concrete doesn’t come cheap!

@bossob, do they do that after the concrete has cured or or poured?

Staining is done after it’s cured. Concrete stamping and dying is done when it’s poured. The ‘dye’ (a powder) is sprinkled on top and pounded into the surface when the stamping is done.

Well that might be just what @JLeslie is looking for!

Obtain a building permit and consult a structural engineer and have the completed work inspected before it is covered up with cosmetic finishes. If you fail to do so, the consequences could be disasterous.