What is a fair price for this used vehicle?

When you’re buying a used car, pay a mechanic to look it over.

I will echo the remark above.

You mention that the radio doesn’t work due to fluids?

I just saw a report on ABC news about how there are cars which had been totally waterlogged for days due to the flooding of Hurricane Sandy appearing on dealers lots all over the country with CLEAN TITLES.

Obviously that’s against the law but they’re doing it anyway. A sharp mechanic knows what to look for here so its worth it to have one look it over.

Water damaged cars are EXTREMELY DANGEROUS because critical parts can fail due to the corrosive effects of salt water over time.

I’ll see if I can find a link to a video of that report and edit it in.

@Buttonstc No I meant it doesn’t work, and I also noticed when looking at dipsticks and fluids that they looked like needed a tune up. I didn’t mean the radio didn’t work because of it. My crappy typing and English at work is all haha.

How much should I expect to pay a mechanic to give it a good look?

And Carfax how accurate are they? Worth the 30/40 bucks never done one before.

Interesting thanks for heads up. Didn’t notice any major rust or corrosion inside doors or under it when I crawled down. But I will double check.

Anything else I should look for and/or ask?

Well, better safe than sorry.

I found the report in case you’re interested. Here ya go:
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http://abcnews.go.com/m/story?id=20156236&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F

As to how much a mechanic charges to give it a thorough inspection, $50–100 and well worth it as long as you get a competent certified mechanic.

It’s not ONLY possible flood damage but there’s a whole host of other potential problems that a good mechanic can help you spot in time to either have the dealership make necessary repairs or knock some off the price.

It’s well worth it IMHO.

If it were a choice between a carfax report or a thorough inspection by a certified mechanic, I would choose the mechanic hands down.

Aren’t dealerships required to show you the carfax report free of charge?

Yes, I think the Carfax is worthwhile. Little money compared to the possible surprises.

I haven’t checked recently, but I paid $100 ten years ago for a mechanic’s opinion. Again, much cheaper than any unexpected repair.

@Buttonstc I have no idea to be honest if they are required I thought it was fairly common they did though. This is a bit of different case as this guy bought it from a place for wholesale I believe how he told me. It is a sales lot where you pay to basically put your owned vehicles there for sale.

He had like 6 or 7 vehicles there, among others (thought they looked came form dealerships) I guess technically it is not a dealership.

Anyways I am going to carfax.com and buy the 5 report deal for 50 bucks. Figure for 10 dollars more I’ll have 4 extra in case this vehicle does not work out.

EDIT: Actually not sure if I want to try Autocheck or carfax, hm.

That’s a good idea to go for that carfax deal.

But for your own peace of mind, find a good mechanic.

What you’re describing about this guy sounds a little sketchy to me. Since he’s not even a dealership you’ll have absolutely no recourse for any issues.

A mechanic check can save you tons of future aggravation. Well worth it.

@Buttonstc Totally agree. My next question is in regards to the mechanic do I just go to a shop in town? Do they have a standard inspection they do for things like this?

Is it in their mechanic shop or do they come out and look at it?

Ok just quick update I have the report and if you guys don’t mind looking it over with me?

Looks pretty solid besides the one accident or “incident” damage report which unfortunately gives no real description on what it was.

http://s463.photobucket.com/user/fminorpenta/library/CARFAX%20HYUNDAI%2003?sort=3&page=1

Not sure if link will work.

PS if it does work you’ll have click on the zoom button on the pictures.

Carfax is not always reliable. Report
I saw this on the news just last week.
Ask for the previous owners phone number and call them.

@chyna How would I get previous owners numbers? What is the process?

I have asked the dealer for their numbers before. If he isn’t comfortable giving you the number, ask him to give the owner your number and ask them to call you.
When I did this, the dealer gave me the owner’s number and they seemed very honest to me. What do they have to lose? They have already sold the vehicle to the dealership.

@chyna I will ask see what I can do. Shouln’t be too hard to do so. I only need the previous 2 owners which the “incident” happened and how it was since then.

@chyna Ok so, I got off the phone with the salesman and he gave me full name on the last owner, which was a trade in towards one of his vehicles. However it was done when he son was watching over the shop(while he was away), and I guess his son didn’t take down all information like no contact numbers or he simply didn’t look for it. Who knows. (sounds little fishy)

I did mention that on a carfax report it showed damage report of accident or incident.

But he wasn’t mad that I contacted about it. He did seem a bit surprised and honestly seems like he knows less than I do about the vehicle at this point.

I am going to try and find a number for this person, but not sure if I’ll have luck with it.

Does sound a bit fishy, but it could be the truth.
If you are uncomfortable with this car having been in an accident, I think I would look for another car.

@chyna I did some searches for a number on this person. Nothing. I don’t even know if they live in this state anymore.

The fact that it was in some kind of accident does not bother me, but the fact that I don’t know what exactly happened to it in that accident. If I could figure that out it would be a much easier decision.

I mean I don’t know about autosales and how this guy operates exactly, but how do you not have any information (besides name) on someone who is trading a vehicle in towards one of yours?

Kind of makes me wonder about how you run things or you are indeed lying and do not want me to talk to previous owner.

I could be reading into things a bit here, but hey just saying….In the end if I can’t contact previous owners (kind of boggles my mind) because doesn’t have information, I can take it in to a shop for an inspection.

Just another update. I called him back, and explained to him I was not able to find a number with name given and verified I spelled it correctly.

At this point he said he would look some more ( he was on the lot) and see if he could find paperwork or information on previous owner and call me back. So least I am less skeptical as he has remained friendly and professional about my questions. I feel like if he was trying to hide something he would have been defensive at some point.

Anyways I figure hopefully I can contact last owner preferably last two owners which would let me know about the “damage report” If it was something small not an issue to me. Fender bender or something perhaps. But if major accident I’ll re consider, he did mention that if it was more than likely the title would show as reconstructed had it been a serious accident. Fair point I suppose.

I also mentioned that I wanted a inspection done somewhere by mechanic and he seemed totally fine with that. See what he says when he calls back.

@CuriousLoner You are doing a good job. This is an unusually productive thread!

@jaytkay Thanks. I just want a simple vehicle to get me around town and to work. Seeing my current budget this the lower end of spectrum of bracket I was willing to spend, but if everything checks out I think it is a pretty good deal and serves what I need.

Everyone has been very helpful by the way, much appreciated.

Now I just wait for the phone call for next decision.

What @chyna said about car fax is correct. It’s not always reliable. Take the car to a body shop and ask them to give it the once over. If you can’t drive it, have them come to the car. It shouldn’t take too long. A good body shop guy can tell you if your car has ever been in a wreck and how bad.

We bought a car with a clean record, but apparently a tree branch or something fell on the roof and broke the windshield. The owner must have fixed it himself with a lot of bondo. Everything was fine until I got a cracked windshield, and suddenly I had a huge problem because we couldn’t get the new windshield to fit. It took lots and lots of extra mastic to make it work.

You should plan to pay for them to look at your car, and more if they have to go off site.

@snowberry True. It still gives me some kind of idea though. Here in Alaska cracked windshields, headlights and such are fairly common.

It is almost 7:30pm and have not received a phone call back. It has been 3 hours about now.

It is almost 7:30pm and have not received a phone call back. It has been 3 hours about now.

It is also Sunday. Even on a weekday 3 hours is no big deal.

You are doing things right. Be the skeptical buyer. Take your time.

@jaytkay Indeed. It was more so that he said he’d return with a phone call is all. But I’’ be patient.

Well. I called this morning he said still couldn’t find anything on the lady who traded it in. He admitted he was surprised that he couldn’t.

I told him wanted a inspection before I made my final decision. He plans to take himself this morning there.

Should I expect the mechanic or shop to generate some kind of report on the condition of the vehicle? I won’t be there as he said he’d take it himself.

You need to pick the shop; don’t let him do it, unless the estimate is binding, then maybe.

@snowberry I picked the place. Although I may get a second opinion as I know the mechanic he is reliable, but he is not a brand name place or however you would say it. I’ll see later today. Hoping for good news so I can make a decision.

Here’s a great way to find a good mechanic or body shop. http://www.cartalk.com/mechanics-files

@snowberry Awesome. I will check that out.

I’ll be honest, if I do feel need to get a second opinion I will feel a bit of like a douche, but hey worth the hassle to know figure right.

Here’s another site, but they mostly post stuff from disgruntled customers. The business in question does have an opportunity to clear stuff up, and sometimes they do and the customer is satisfied. Here’s that link too. ripoffreport.com

Alright. So good news is the mechanic said everything looked good and didn’t see anything. No issues and I also brought the accident thing he said didn’t notice anything in the frame or parts that would suggest a serious accident. Least to him anyways. Now however, the CV boots need to replaced. Said I would probably make it through the winter with them.

Apparently the part is not expensive, but the with larbor (I’ve only quoted one place) looking at about $600 dollars.

I haven’t had chance to call the salesman back and bring the issue up. Maybe dumb question, but what should I expect, the price to be lowered or perhaps have him fix it?

Every single used car we’ve bought has had something we’ve had to repair before we considered it safe to drive. It always ran between $1500 to $2500. If that’s all that’s wrong with it, grab it before someone else does. If nobody else is looking at the vehicle, see if the dealer will give you a break on fixing it, or lower the price for you.

It never hurts to ask the dealer to fix the cv boot. If he says no, you can still deal with them and ask if they will meet you in the middle, take 300.00 off of purchase price.

@snowberry Wow. That is crazy, but used vehicles normally have wear and tear. Always it of a gamble. I don’t know if anyone else is looking at it, however he seemed pretty eager to sale it even after we agreed upon a lowered price of $4,200. Also in his ad he put that “Car can be seen on the (Auto Park Lot) at 728 30th Ave Moving Must Sell $4750 o.b.o”

Not sure if that means he is needing to really sell it bad or not.

@chyna I think that is pretty reasonable. That would put me at at $3,900. I was honestly hoping for $4,000 before I found this out so definitely a good price I believe if he goes it for it.

How does this car look on blue book rates? Do you know how to score it? First you rate the car as to condition (I think it’s something like new, excellent, good, fair, poor). Then look up the make, model and year. That’s your starting point for used cars.

@snowberry I looked at KBB. I am not sure however if I should put this under dealership or private party per se? Technically he is more of a private seller right? Which changes price quite a bit.

@snowberry Also I had checked KBB last week. I guess prices have changed that much? Last time I checked it was around what he was asking from dealer quote. Private party was around 3,700.

Now it is around like 3,300 “excellent” private party. and only 4,200 from dealer or “excellent” condition.

Again though this does not include winterized (which is extremely common to have in AK) Auto start however is seen, but is a nice add on which cost a decent amount. Maybe that is how he is adding up his price?

I don’t know much about private seller and all that, except that you negotiate differently.

And what’s your interest rate? If the sales guy is too eager, I’d be very very careful especially at closing. Are you a gal or a guy? If you’re a gal, make sure to take a guy along. They often think they can take advantage of women.

One last thing. Be sure, be sure, you do not hand over the money unless you see the title. I bought a car from a dealer and he never gave me the title. Ever! I was flying out of state, and told my sob story to the DMV lady. She was exasperated. Said they do it all the time.

And a friend bought a car from a situation like you have. The guy said he’d mail him the title and so he gave the guy the money. It took him a year to get the title, and lots and lots of headache.

@snowberry Also I noticed that it seems I forgot to change it from 4WD to 2WD in options , it’s 2WD front wheel. That might the big price difference.

I am a guy. Yes I totally agree about the title. He showed me the first day title to ensure it was clean to me and all the paperwork associated with it. I guess he thought I was going to buy it that day or I was locked in on the price of $4,200.

@snowberry I just went back to verify and yes that is the reason in price difference. If it was 4WD then his price would have made sense. However with 2WD, which this vehicle is prices are from

Private party

Excellent
$3,243
Verify Condition
Very Good
$2,968
Good
$2,843
Fair
$2,268

Suggested retail or dealer is about $4,200

Also KBB has which I just discovered can view vehicles prices to same model or very similar. And they all seem to be going fro way cheaper.

He said that Alaska does not go off KBB or least place he deals with I guess. Which based off that is pretty dramatic price difference. I even mentioned that the clean retail from his last quote of August of ”$5,857” from NADA dropped to ”$5,300” literally checked today and he didn’t seem to care to about that. He also didn’t care about KBB prices.

I told him I thought $4,000 was fair at this point considering it did need maintenance. On flip side he got the radio working or it started working. Why it wasn’t to begin with I don’t know. He offered to fix it at discounted price said cost about $340 and spot me the labor and I pay for parts. He didn’t want to lower price from $4,200.

He seem to assume I was going to buy it….

In the end, I remained professional and respectful. I told him thank you sir, appreciate your time and help with the vehicle. However right now $4,000 is where I feel comfortable, but still interested. Have a good day.

$340 is in reference to the CV boots meant to edit, not the radio.

Ah, now it starts to make sense. Oh by the way, in the event you end up buying it, be sure you check to make sure the heater/defrost works, and you’ll want really great tread on those tires going into winter..

@snowberry I checked heat first day test drove it. It has mud and snow tires on it which looked in good maybe fair condition.

I figure hey keep looking and if anything I can come back to this vehicle. Who knows he may call me back before then or not.

If he sells it by then oh well. No point in crying over spilled milk.