It is a source of joy that I am finally on my way back to the boat and back to the Yucatan. But first I must navigate the vagaries of the Cuban rail system.
I caught the Santiago-Havana “Express” out of Camaguey today at around 2:30pm. I meant to take the 1pm regular from Camaguey to Havana, but it never showed. So, I caught the Santiago train, which was 17 hours late. It arrived just in time for me, though. The Havana Express, which travels the length of Cuba, with minimum stops in between, is advertised as taking about 6 hours to travel the 250 miles from Camaguey to Havana, with stops in Santa Clara and Matanzas, a city just southeast of Havana.
But, the Santiago to Havana Express was unable to continue after stopping at Santa Clara, so I will sit here in the railroad station and hope that my original train, the Camaguey to Havana, will stop here sometime tonight and take me the rest of the way. It all works out though as I was to meet Mike here, when he disembarked from his train from Cienfuegos, a city to the west of here.
But as my train never showed, his didn’t either, but hopefully the train that he did take will arrive here in Santa Clara before the Camaguey to Havana will arrive, and we can ride together to Havana and then take a taxi to the boat as originally planned. We’ll see. You have to take these things in stride. It’s part of the charm.
So, I’m here in the Estacion Centrale Santa Clara; a pretty little station with ornate, old, woodwork kept in high polish; high, arched ceilings; brightly colored tile murals depicting peasant rebellions against the imperialism of 19th century Spanish Empire, and the American imperialism of the 20th century—with special attention to the Revolution of 1959 and the great economic, industrial, and social successes under the regime of Señor Castro.
Amazingly, they have wifi here in the station, a novel inovation, something new to Cuba, put in place for the many European and Canadian tourists who come here for the sun. There is a friendly abuelita on her stool in a corner of the main salon selling fresh flowers and a man in a stall selling bananas and small cups of Cuban espresso. There is a restaurant, but it closed at 7:30pm.
There are tired looking travelers, mostly Cuban workers and a few officials in suits and ties, and one or two casually dressed young foreigners busy with their tablets and laptops. Smart phones won’t work here. Maybe next year.
Mr. Castro has received 150 million dollars from his Chinese brothers to upgrade these railroad lines, and he has bought recently retired rolling stock from the French, who are upgrading their system to high-speed rail, but his roads can’t handle them safely yet, so the Cuban people must wait some more. The present trains cannot travel faster than 25 mph safely, but the new, old French rolling stock, including luxury passenger cars from the Orient Express used in the London to Paris run, are promised to go 40 mph when the tracks are up to speed.
So, I’m sitting here, pounding away at the keyboard, looking around me at these people with all the regular human commonalities, but with a history and culture and life experience so different than ours, and I am happy. This isn’t a train station on Long Island full of busy, ambivalent commuters. This is a train station in a society frozen in the 1950s and it is so much more charming, so much more interesting. It’s life in slow motion. The abuelita smiles at me from across the salon. The man in stall that looks like the kind of wooden box a grand piano might be shipped in looks at me expectantly—me the weary traveler might need some of his coffee to get through the night as I wait for a train, any train, to Havana. He’s right. And what the hell, why leave my abuelita out? They are the only business people left here.
So, I bought a beautiful bouquet of yellow, blue, and red flowers, with a white spray, from her. And what a gentle soul she seems as she whispered her gracias to me with a warm, toothless, octogenarian smile. Two dollars in Convertable Pesos ($2.00 CP = $2.00 US dollars) got me all that. The man with the coffee served it to me with the confident smile of a merchant who is sure of our continued business relationship, at least through this night.
A man in a State Rail uniform came over and informed me that the Camaguey train will be coming at around 1am, with the caveat that things could change, but right now, it’s One O’clock. He offered to buy me a cup of espresso, compliments of the railroad. I took him up on it. Then he went back into the office.
So, here I am. I might make it back to the boat sometime tomorrow. Who knows. It really doesn’t matter, I won’t be sailing out immediately anyway. I have to get some sleep before I do that. And there is some really nasty weather arriving from the north which I’m not crazy about sailing in. So, maybe Mike and I will take another day or two before we sail.
There are some things we should stock up on, such as Cohiba El Jefe’s; the cigar designed personally for Comrade Castro in celebration of his victory in Havana over the American-backed dictator Batista on New Year‘s Day, 1959, and the cigar he has smoked exclusively over these long years since. It is precisely the same blend and circumfrance of Winston Churchill’s personal Cohiba stock, but with one significant difference: it is exactly one inch longer. And we need a couple of cases of that excellent Cuban dark rum, the premium Añejo of the old days; smoothe and powerful, with a slight coffee-bean finish. These are things that it is agreed worldwide that are best of their kind, even among those who don’t partake. They are valuable in other places, and keeping with the traditons of the sea, it would be grossly negligent of me not to take a certain quantity aboard for future trade.
I also want to visit Hemingway’s home, La Finca Vigia (The Lookout Farm) from 1939 to 1960, in the Havana suburb of San Francisco de Paula, southeast of the city. It’s a museum now, and has some of his personal library and notes. It’s a pretty villa overlooking Havana and said to be kept the same as it was when he lived there, the same furniture, many of the same books on the shelves. Here he wrote For Whom the Bell Tolls and The Old Man and the Sea. He also received the Nobel prize in literature when he lived here.
But overall, he considered his time at Finca Vigia unproductive years. Here he grew old, gained weight, his body and mind began to succumb to the effects of decades of heavy drinking, diabetes, a series of injuries due to car accidents and plane crashes over the decades, and finally crippling depression and paranoia. It was soon after leaving this place for Ketchum, Idaho that he committed suicide. But what I really want to see is his 38-foot fisherman/cabin cruiser Pilar which the Cuban government has recently restored. It’s kept in a separate building next to the house. If there were any good times while he was living those years in Cuba, it was aboard this boat.
These errands should only take a couple of days and the weather should have cleared by then. We’ll probably sail sometime Monday.
Miracle of Miracles, the Camaguey to Havana train—the train I was originally supposed to catch at 1 pm yesterday afternoon in Camaguey—is pulling into the station. Only eleven hours late.