Welcome to Fluther.
I’m presuming that you’ve seen the process as it occurs during the day, and it’s not a “micro” event (which paradoxically calls for the macro lens), so I’m going to opine that the 70 – 220 mm telephoto will do well, provided the lighting is right.
Do you have a tripod? Because that’s probably a pretty heavy lens to be holding the camera steady and waiting for the event, and a tripod and cable release are going to be the best ways to get a rock-steady shot.
Aside from that setup, the camera itself probably has internal information regarding the light exposure. Is this a digital or film camera? If it’s a digital model, then I would also assume that you can just set up for the shot, wait for it, set the exposure to Automatic and let the camera take care of the exposure. Especially if it’s digital, then you can review and decide whether you need more light, more or less depth of field, more time or less, etc.
With a film camera, I would recommend bracketing exposures once you have the recommended values set by the camera’s exposure meter. (Even my 40-year-old Fuji film camera will help me set up the shot once I set the film speed and exposure time, then play with the f-stops. Surely a more modern Nikon can beat that.)
If you’ve never played with f-stops before, the smaller numbers mean wider lens aperture opening and faster shutter speeds (less time required for the exposure, as more light enters the lens through the wider opening), but also give you the shallowest depth of field, which will probably aid the effect that you’re trying to achieve. You don’t want to capture “the whole tree”, but “the section of the tree where the event occurs”, and leave the rest sort of out of focus so the eye is drawn to what is in focus.
It has been so long since I’ve shot with my old telephoto that I can’t recall if you’ll be forced to use the higher f-stops or not. So, play with it.