Do you know of a glass, liquid measuring cup that does not dribble down the side when you pour?

You may be pouring too slowly.

I have had success with this one by OXO

Don’t the standard Pyrex measuring cups all feature the standard pouring spout we all associate with the Kool Aid pitcher? I never have a drip problem with any of them as long as I utilize the spout.

I have no problem with glass Anchor Hocking measuring cups dripping down the side.

@zenvelo that is plastic

We have 3 of those oxo cups in various sizes, and they too have the spout. But they do yellow with age. And of course you need be aware of what you can safely measure in them.

@HP He asked about glass ones.

I know, but the oxo cups are like seeing a familiar friend. Though they’re at the back of the collection these days and I rarely use them. Oxo makes a lot of very novel and useful containers.

I haven’t had a problem with my Anchor. It must be user error!!! ;}
You specifically mentioned “hot water”. Does it also happen with cold water???

It happens with hot or cold water, and milk.

I see that I am not the only person in the world with this issue
This photo is from a Binging with Babish cooking video. Look at the mess he made. And he is a pro!

I prefer glass since I am heating it in the microwave. I noticed that the glass Pyrex measuring cup has a rim all the way around the edge and on the spout. I’m guessing they did that for strength or maybe there was a manufacturing reason. But it encourages a mess.

@LadyMarissa For sure it is operator error. :-) I cannot pour cleanly unless the liquid is well below half of the container. That is ridiculous.

I can’t properly word my response to the photo. The liquid is being poured so quickly that it overwhelms the spout, yet not quickly enough to prevent adherence of some of it to the glass exterior to the spout and thus down the outside of the glass.

I wonder if a laboratory beaker (made of thinner glass) with a spout wouldn’t leak like that.

I have glass measuring cups (the traditional Pyrex and probably Ancho Hocking too) but I never noticed them dribbling because I usually pour quickly. Usually the only time I’m measuring liquids is for baking, and then I just dump the contents from the cup to the bowl.

Pyrex cups are the worst!!! They seem to be badly designed. I have NO problem with my Anchor Hocking. I’m also one of those who dump & go when the time comes.

What about using a glass fat separator?

@raum That is an interesting concept. It’s a bit overkill to solve a relatively minor problem. .

Before I take that step I am going to try to make some improvements on the design. I have my diamond bits ready and will go to Goodwill and buy a couple of samples so I can experiment.
I’m thinking micro cuts perpendicular to the flow would cause the water to shed. We’ll see.
Hey, if it were easy someone would have done it already.

@LuckyGuy Haha…I love the way your mind works. That buying several from Goodwill to experiment on is the more minor option.

If you can pour cleanly when it is half full, I think the issue is angle of approach of liquid to lip of the measuring cup.

(I’m not sure if I worded that correctly?)

The solution would be a taller cup (if you want to keep a cylinder shape). With measurements at the bottom.

Or a cup that widens from base to top. Neither of which can be done by tweaking an existing cup.

I guess you could grind down the spout (if the glass is thick enough) to control approach of the liquid. But that seems like a lot of work!

We’ve come a long way in 1000 years. I’m looking for some hydrophobic surface finish – something that I can do but is not economically viable for a big company like Corning or Anchor.
It’s a start. We’ll see….

Here’s another food grade option for that approach.

https://www.antlab.in/food-grade.php

@LuckyGuy – the material has too large of a radius at the edge, perpendicular to the flow, so surface tension makes it try to flow around. I am not adept with glasswork, so don’t know how you would make a sharp edge. Being that it’s likely borosilicate glass, you would have to heat it to a rather high temp to try to melt/mold it. See:
https://www.scienceabc.com/eyeopeners/why-do-liquids-sometimes-run-down-the-side-of-the-container-when-they-are-poured-out.html#:~:text=When%20the%20angle%20between%20vertical,the%20side%20of%20the%20container)

https://physics.stackexchange.com/questions/28982/why-does-water-pouring-from-a-glass-sometimes-travel-down-the-side-of-the-glass

Here is a fun presentation about it. Superhydrophobic surfaces

@RocketGuy ~I took glassblowing at RPI 50 years ago so clearly I am an expert. ;-)
I figure I can etch the surface with my diamond tool bits and a lot of water. I’m still not sure what surface features are needed but it is worth a try. Maybe I will luck out and the bits’ effective grit size will be the ideal size. l have a reasonably good selection at hand.
It will be easy to try and the result will be obvious.
I will be sure to wear my safety glasses.

Ha! My daughter is graduating from RPI in May. Design/Mech Engr major.

Etching the spout might discourage the liquid from flowing around. Good luck.

@RocketGuy Great school! You must be very proud. Kvelling!
“Back in my day” (50 years ago) we had a quick quiz expression that only students from RPI would know the answer to. I won’t detail the question, nor answer, here but it had something to do with the prevailing wind direction on campus.
I wonder if the question still exists. If you get a chance, ask your daughter. ;-) Thanks!

I went to Goodwill and bout a couple of vases like this.
They have several flutes that form spouts so I can try some tricks. I practiced with my diamond bit in a Dremel at 35,000 rpm. Wow. Lots of scary, incredibly fine glass dust.

You had a vacuum cleaner with HEPA filter nearby?

BTW, my daughter just says it’s windy all the time. There is one area called the wind tunnel.

I wish. Just a small Sears shop vac with the exhaust aimed away from me. For the sake of my lungs I will upgrade my setup so I am using a HEPA filter

By the way, I still need to optimize my testing but so far I am not seeing a noticeable difference with microcuts perpendicular to the flow.

At work we use a Teflon mold release that looks and smells exactly like White Lightning Teflon bike chain lube. Maybe you could dab the underside of the spout with that to discourage liquid from clinging to it. The Teflon should not slough off and get into your food, but it’s not digestible anyway. Just don’t get it above 500F.

That is worth a try. I also have some Krytox handy.

I am going to do all future grinding outdoors. I got a little spooked by the small cloud of glass/diamond dust. I’m sure OSHA would have something to say about it.

The next experiment will be grinding the underside of the spout perpendicular to the flow.

Holy NonStick Batman!!!
I just tried a tiny, almost imperceptible smear of butter on the bottom of the lip AND IT WORKED!!!
Of course it will wash off and will likely melt away when heated but it proves the concept.

I would still prefer a “hard fix” like a surface modification.
This is not over!

OK. I risked death and ground some possible configurations in about 10 spouts. ( I’ll count later after everything is washed.)
I used a 3.5 mm diameter x 6mm long diamond bit at 35,000 rpm. It sliced through the glass like butter!
I cut about 0.5 mm deep on the top surface in 4 spouts, four 0.5 mm deep on the bottom surface, and made one spout with a 4 mm deep 3.5 mm wide channel at the low point of an existing spout.
i wore Z87+ rated safety glasses, N95 mask and had the wind behind me.

Centuries from now some research scientist will wonder what natural process caused v shaped glass nano-particles to form in garden soil.

Aliens! Definitely aliens! Moon dust is similarly sharp edged, so the aliens must have tracked Moon dust to this ancient human settlement.

Preliminary testing shows very little – if any improvement with the ground top or bottom surfaces. The water wicks down the side at about the same angle as the unground surfaces.

There was a big improvement with the 3.5 mm cylindrical cut, 2 mm deep at the base of the normal spout. That worked very well. The water practically leapt off the surface. I’m guessing this was due to one or all of three factors.
1) the sharp, horizontal pouring spout edge
2) the slightly higher head pressure of the water at the spout
3) the surface roughness

A light smear of butter on the bottom surface worked very well, and while not a permanent soliition, will not result in flying glass bits – or divorce.

I wonder if you can make the butter coating more long lasting? Perhaps bake the butter-coated glass at 350F for 15 min. My wife did that with my oiled wok (I stored it in the oven) and it got a nice “seasoning”. Be careful to avoid fast temperature changes, since you are dealing with glass.