What is happening on X, the site formerly known as Twitter?

I quit Twitter as soon as Musk started allowing hate speech, and I haven’t kept up with it more than reading headlines.

Are you a member? Do you know what’s happening on the site from first-hand experience? Do you know about it from reliable sources?

I’m hoping to get solid information. Please note this question is in General. I’m not looking for screeds or hearsay or short rants pro or con.