My wife and I were traveling through farmland in southern France and came upon a sign pointing up a dirt road climbing a steep hill. It was an official government sign from the bureau of historical monuments saying that on top of that hill was King Henry IV’s bed. We had to see that, of course, so we wound up the rutted track and found this nondescript, but very old, chateau.
We banged on the massive wooden gate, which set a dog barking on the other side, but no answer. After a couple of minutes and a few more knocks, we were turning back to the car, when the gate creaked open and a huge man emerged with a German shepherd on a chain. My curiosity about the bed had vanished by this point, but we did need to explain what we were doing there, so we said we had seen the sign. His menacing demeanor softened a bit, and he ushered us into a surreal old hall.
He explained that only the bed was publicly protected as an historical monument, while the crumbling chateau that housed it was still the private property of an absentee family. The matriarch of the family having just died, the heirs were busily selling off all of the artwork and furniture that the chateau had contained. So our guide (a former boxer named Olivier, we learned) walked us through the darkened rooms, pausing every now and then in front of a less-faded rectangle on the wall where a picture had once hung, or a bare spot on the floor once occupied by a piece of furniture, and described in well-rehearsed detail the venerable artifact that wasn’t in front of us.
Finally, Oliver led us upstairs to the fabled bed. It was a canopied masterpiece of intricate needlecraft, the result of years of labor by a few local medieval lasses, all to be occupied by the royal carcass only a couple of nights. The ceiling of the room offered only nominal protection from the elements; the walls and other sparse furnishings were severely water-damaged. The bed could not be removed from this spot by order of the French authorities, but the owners of the chateau were under no obligation to keep the bedroom in good repair.
As we soaked in the horrific decrepitude around us, Olivier went to the tall french windows, flung them open, and began serenading us in an enthusiastic baritone. We tried to look appreciative.
The tour over, Olivier ushered us back to the gate, pausing to nod toward a squat lodging on the chateau grounds where he lived as caretaker along with his wife, whom he referred to as “the peasant”. Walking out of that gate was like traversing a wormhole from some alternate universe back into our own.