Need advice about choosing the best DSLR under $1000?

There is little to pick between Canon, Nikon and even Sony as far as the camera goes. Sony makes most of the sensors. It comes back to the type of photography that you are interested in and the lenses available to suit.

If this is your first DSLR camera, then I’d advise you to start with Canon EOS 450D Digital Rebel or Nikon D60 with VR lens, they both fall below the $1000 price tag.

Read my responses here

The best camera really depends on what you are going to use it for.

Sony a700 with vintage Rokkor glass. Puts the NikCan to shame.

Don’t overlook “extinction resolution”, really helps with fashion with super tight thread.
Sony DSLR-A700
Horizontal LPH 2900
Vertical LPH 2800

Canon EOS 40D
Horizontal 2300
Vertical 2300

Nikon D300
Horizontal 2600
Vertical 2600

Olympus E-3
Horizontal 2400
Vertical 2200

Pick up a used body on eBay for $750.

Reasons I like Sony/Minolta (the ones you don’t hear about)

Locking Spot Meter,
toggles on or off with a single press of the button and will hold the reading for a decade if you wish. It’s like shooting manual automatic. One stop overexposure spot reading on the face is locked in for the entire shoot. Normal spot on grass for sports or blue jeans for concerts means perfect exposure every time, locked in for super consistent results. NikCan only holds the reading as long as the button is held down, or locks for one exposure only.

Huge lens selection from,
Carl Zeiss, Sony, Vintage Minolta (the best of all)

Vertical Grip with lowered shutter release will spoil you rotten. Keeps both elbows on your chest.

Eye Start Focus is fast fast fast. NikCan doesn’t focus till you press the button down.

Unique Flash Mount snaps on/off with a single button.

In body stabilization works with ALL LENSES, most importantly, wide angles.

The fit and finish are superb, better than my NikCan’s ever were (about the same as my Nik D1X, or Can 1DS), but way better than my Can 5D or 20D ever were.

Never a compatibility issue with older 3rd party lenses. Older Sigs and Tammy’s typically don’t work with Canon’s EOS.

FULL BATTERY COMPATIBILITY!!! Between all Sony’s from the a200 to a900. I own a200, a700 and a900 and it’s wonderful not to have different batts. NikCan changes batts for different lines of cameras. Rebel is different from XXD’s and that differes from 1D’s series. It’s a nightmare. Nikon does the same battery juggle too.

Sony uses very similar menu systems across entire camera line, practically the same except for features between cameras. Use one, you’ve used them all. Every different NikCan I’ve owned has had a different menu system.

You can easily upgrade to 26mp full frame later with a850 ($2000) or a900 ($2500) and the rigs feel exactly the same.

The Sony does not shoot video… yet. But the traditional purist feeling is unparalleled. Very satisfying experience. Sony has the best dynamic range for jpg files and much much better highlight details too. A full f-stop better than Canon 5D.

The old Minolta Rokkors are like little diamonds. Collect yours now before it’s too late!

Want video? Panasonic GF1 or GH1.

Pro Sports probably need NikCan because of the big glass.

a700 review here:
http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/sonydslra700/

Why your camera doesn’t matter

I’d go with a good point and shoot. I regret all the money I’ve spent on bodies and lenses; and no one but me can tell which of my photos were taken with expensive gear, which with dirt cheap P&S cameras. Go on, guess.

I have to agree with RealEyes here. I have high end Nikon, Canon and Sony and prefer and use Sony more than any of the others. I have a huge collection of Minolta glass – dating back to the seventies when I got my first camera, a Minolta XE1.

The problem is that even with the lower cost of Minolta AF lenses – if you can find them, or the MD and earlier which require an adapter and are manual only (many on eBay have problems) by the time you buy an A700 (they have been discontinued and becoming hard to find) a decent flash and a couple of lenses you will be well over your budget. That applies to all the brands, $1000 is a little low to start with a DSLR system and expect good results. Most of the kit lenses are junk – which is so many are for sale second-hand and described as “near new”.

You might want to consider a high end Point & Shoot (Bridge camera) until such time as you are sure that you want to invest in the hobby. With the exception of poor low light performance (they will need a good flash) in the hands of a competent photographer they can match or exceed many of the start-up DSLR kits.

Go here and read through some of the reviews.

@Brahmaviharas I regret all the money I’ve spent on bodies and lenses; and no one but me can tell which of my photos were taken with expensive gear, which with dirt cheap P&S cameras

All this says is that you have not reached competency with photography. It is a reflection on your skills, not on any camera system.

(I can see difference in your 350 Rebel and Powershot images – subtle but there.)

@Brahmaviharas

P&S is fine for 4×6 snaps in the photo album (or web trinkets). Some of us actually enlarge our images beyond 5×7 up to 30×40. Try a double page magazine spread with a P&S. Smaller chips equal higher noise levels and much much less tonal range, not to mention the delay on shutter release missing most of the peak action key moments.

Nothing beats a quality SLR, once you get to know it. Sony/Minolta gets a lot of heat from their unconventional design. But that design is well suited to the shooter that understands its layout as actually more efficient for real world shooting experience.

Go with what your friends have. That way you can borrow their lenses. Its also the lenses you should spend your money on, not the bodies. Pick up a used D40 for $350 or so and spend the rest on lenses. A 14–24, 25–80, and 80–200 would make a nice kit. Add a prime in there for low light and your ready to handle any situation and be able to blow up your prints to 24×18 no problem